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Awal awal pagi lebih kurang jam 4.30am 14th August 2004, Fendi call ketika aku masih separuh mimpi.. Dia kata tempat dia hujan lebat... guruh, petir... dsb.. aku kata tempat aku senyap sunyi takde apapa pun..  Lebih kurang jam 5.30am hujan sampai tempat aku pulak... tapi takle lebat. So kami decide kalau hujan lebat sangat cancel. Tapi kalau hujan berhenti sebelum jam enam, boleh consider bertolak jam tujuh atau lapan. Check dengan Panjang dia tak jawab handfon. Around 7.00am masih gerimis.. So managed to call Panjang and dia kata dia dah sampai Tapah?? So the two of us decide to proceed with the Betong plan and departs KL just before 8.00 am.  Traffic was heavy so we proceed on slowly until Sungai Buloh when the road clears dan jalan pun mula kering.

Fendi was leading the 2-bike convoy going at a modest 140 kph all  the way to Tapah. Sampai Tapah jam 10.00 pagi.  Kami check dengan attenden minyak, group Panjang dah berlepas lebih kurang 1 1/2 jam.  Later I told Fendi that if we are going at a cruiser speed we will not be able to catch up with Panjang's mainly cruiser group.  I think Fendi took it that I complain he was going too slow. He in turn complain that I complain about his speed and cited problem about his tyre and etc etc.... Lepas tu dia maintain 160kph occassionally dropping down to much saner speed.  Lepas toll masuk Ipoh ada road block speed trap. Banyak kereta kena tahan tapi kami lepas - either we were really slow or the speed camera could not catch us!!  Going up through the tunnel and down Bukit Berapit was a nice sight-seeing experience trailing behind Fendi. I never felt any safer.

Turning in to Grik after Kuala Kangsar RR, the road was straight and wide with occasional bend here and there. Traffic was very sparse dan kena berhati hati sebab banyak perkampungan along the highway and the kapcai's and proton sagas will criss-cross from one side to the other without warning. Somewhere after Kuala Kangsar junction,  four policeman manning a makeshift road-block tak sempat nak bangun when we zoomed by.  We waved in courtesy. The highway ends about 8 or so  km from Lenggong and takes us through the old single lane typical Malaysian kampung road passing through beautiful lakes with ongoing fresh water fish farming activities. There were a few roadside pondoks and restaurants specialising in ikan bakar - satu hari nanti kena try... We stop to refuel in Lenggong and to singgah ATM. We were informed by the Kakak at the counter that Panjang's group left about an hour earlier. (She was embarassed because I caught her tengah makan maggi mee sorok sorok belakang counter) A few km after Lenggong the highway begins again and the journey was uneventful and we maintain 140 - 160 kph - beautiful ride and the population along this stretch was sparse.. You see more kampungs and developments upon reaching Grik and again need to be careful of the criss-crossing kampung traffic.

Kami sampai di Grik about 11.30am.  A familiar sight after been here twice in the past 2 years riding with Thunder Riders gang to the east coast. Terkenang kembali muka-muka member Thunder Riders as they rode into town.. From Grik to Pengkalan Hulu (40+ km) the road was noticeably more treacherous compared to coming up from the opposite side (Betul kata Tony).  We were going slow most of the time below 100 kph. Have to keep an eye especially going down hill with a sharp bend at the bottom. We saw the infamous "S" corner. We were going at 70 kph (fast) and my estimate anything above 100 kph would be crazy,  above 120 kph suicidal - and there is simply not enough slope for tire traction and the road shoulder is very narrow almost non-existent (takde space nak gunakan jaket, kulit badan, kuku, lutut dan tulang sebagai brakes sekiranya tergelincir). If you lose traction, you will meet up close and personal with either some metal posts, concrete drains or the rocky face of the hill slope - take your pick. As a simple guide for safety just remember when you see the sign "Kawasan Kemalangan" don't try to be a hero.  Disini kita definitely kena respect road sign.

We stop by at the Petronas Pengkalan Hulu and was told that Panjang's group had left barely 10 minutes ago.  Dengar dengar cerita dari attendan ada somebody dari group Panjang accident. Kawa sports bike hijau katanya.

The border to Thailand is only 7 km and the immigration from both the Malaysian and Thai side were hassle free and quick. The traffic was low.  Only difference is you need to pay RM2 service charge on the Thai side for somebody to fill up the form for you.

Kami risau pasal lupa bawak photocopy registration card motor. Actually ini perlu oleh pihak Thai Customs untuk memasuki Thailand. We were sternly told by the Customs on duty that this is a requirement and must be presented next time.  In the meantime? We just need to donate RM3 each probably for “processing fee and paper work that they need not do”.

Betong town is another 7km from the border.  Jalan masuk Betong dari border lebar tetapi kena berhati hati atas dua sebab. Pertama kita kena hormat pengguna pengguna jalan raya lain  seperti kambing, ayam, itek dan orang Siam.  Kedua, walaupun jalan lebar, jalan raya bukan designed oleh engineer – mungkin oleh kontrektor perumahan sebab corner jalannya rata macam lantai rumah – takde slope.  Terdapat banyak ukiran ukiran atas jalan (apparently caused by fallen bikes, overturned lorries etc)

Betong is a miniature version of Ha’adyai. Very miniature.. We stop by at the New Betong Hotel (Rate RM90) an tried to call Panjang. Not being able to contact him and tired and hungry from the journey we decide to check in the Merlin Hotel. We shared a twin bedded room for RM110. We opted for this hotel because it has a better looking and more secure basement for our bikes. After taking our shower we went for lunch at a nearby Muslim restaurant and while having our meal, on and off Panjang’s group roared past by.. We caught up with them in one of the “parades” nearby. Panjang was not there apparently busy with the injured rider. We were glad to learn that the accident was not serious – a cut chin requiring some stitches and bike was still rideable.  After lunch we spend the whole afternoon going round the sleepy old town shopping (window shopping) leather goods and T-shirts. I end up buying disposable contact lens. After that we went for a 2-hour Thai traditional massage session at the hotel. The two of us shared the same cubicle and knowing Fendi, an excellent communicator and with naughty jokes thrown in, there was not a moment of silence. No doubt the masseurs were equally entertained by his wits and yaks. I got a strong tukang urut and it was a real nice painful massage

At some part of the town especially near the hotels, the road transformed itself into a sidewalk bars and cafes at night, loud music with lights and the whole works. Betong, a formerly communist insurgent infested place, some still with it’s wooden structures,  Looks like  it tries very hard to be with the likes of Phuket or Haadyai.

Being non-drinkers we were not able to join Panjang’s loud and overly cheerful company.  However, we proceeded to have one of the best dinner Thailand can offer. We ate at a wooden Muslim Shop in one of the back lane reasonably clean and freshly cooked food prepared right before your eyes. Just a simple menu of Rice, Tom Yam, Telur Bungkus, Sayur Kailan goreng dan Ikan siakap goreng... Oh.. the ikan goreng.  Hmmmnph!.

Selepas dinner, barulah rasa penat sangat. Mungkin sebab kurang tidur malam sebelumnya.  Balik bilik terus tidur dengan jeans, T-shirt and all. (Ini mesti ada kaum yang tak percaya...)

Got up early at 5.30 am and went to the nearby mosque. At 7.00 still dark I woke Fendi up, showered and proceed for the hotel’s free breakfast. Panjang was aware that we are leaving early so we decide not to wake him up just to curse us with his hangover. We departed Betong just before 8.00 am with the cloud hung low and misty with a slight drizzle. The road was wet and we rode slower than the day before.

The border was still quiet - a far cry from the hustle and bustle of Bukit kayu Hitam or Padang Besar. Fendi was harrassed by the bored Malaysian Custom and he had to show off the contents of his tank bag. I think they were looking for grenades or guns! - probably because Fendi looked like a former communist chief. They decide not to hassle me when I told I don’t mind showing them my used underwear and socks. Pengkalan Hulu was still asleep in the cold Sunday morning. Fendi was complaining of the biting cold morning. Halfway to Grik the road dries up and we proceed on picking up speed to Lenggong for refill and Roti Canai.

Aku rasa orang kat Lenggong ni gila makan roti canai.  Bayangkan dua kedai kami pergi awal pagi, kedua duanya dah habis roti canai.. Kedai ketiga roti nya kurang sedap! A group of retired men having their morning coffee were curious and started asking about our bikes. Biasalah.. berapa harga motor? Berapa c.c.?  They got excited and probably had started an argument because they were talking loudly among themselves after we told them the answer.  Not wanting to start a brawl in this cowboy town, we moved on.

When left Lenggong it was drizzling for a while and the sun comes up shortly after.  The morning gets warmer and gets hotter after Ipoh.  We saw the mangled bus at the road side (4 died in Monday’s Paper) in the process of being towed away from the accident site just before the tunnel from North.  We stop for refuel in Tapah and the rest of the way was uneventful. There was one Honda Accord that broke the monotony when it was trying very hard to tail fendi at 160 kph. He decided that his car was no match for the bikes after I overtook him like a nuisance to keep up with Fendi. Next stop was Sungai Buloh RR. Had a bit of rest and drink and we ride home and split at the toll before Taman Connought. I was home before 2.00 pm.

What started off supposedly a 20-bike convoy becomes a 2-bike convoy. Things were much simpler and decision was quick and we both enjoyed the trip tremendously.  Overall this was an excellent ride especially after Kuala Kangsar going towards Grik. I would describe the road to Pengklan Hulu is a bit challenging for the speed freaks because danger lurks at the unexpected places.  Being my first trip to Betong my personal impression is that this is a place you need to see only once – nothing great. Haadyai and Phuket as a destination would be a more interesting place because of the variety and perhaps shopping.  Did we miss something here??? What?

As a biker, Riding is our destination and the place we are heading is just an excuse. Riding tu lah matlamat kita,  destinasi tu buat sebab saja... Anyone planning another trip?

16th August 2004
Note: Affendi was riding his Kawasaki ZX9 and I was with my Suzuki TL1000S